July 6, 2009

The History Of Chicago's Pump Room Restaurant


By Vic Pettygrove

One of the few restaurants in the country to be immortalized in a Sinatra song, the Pump Room in Chicago is now a hot spot once again. The Pump Room was one of the first quality restaurants to open in Chicago after the end of Prohibition, and soon became a Windy City icon. In addition to Sinatra (who sang the praises of the place in the classic song Chicago), the place was a favorite hangout of a lot of famous people including Marilyn Monroe, Sammy Davis, Humphrey Bogart, Clark Gable, Ronald Reagan, Bette Davis and numerous others. The Pump Room, named after a spa in Bath, England, remained open long after the giants that once graced its premises had left. Unfortunately, time took its toll on the legendary establishment, and its culinary fare was soon surpassed by the fine dining scene exploding in Chicago and characterized by uber-chef Charlie Trotter.

The Pump Room opened in 1938 under the ownership and management of Ernie Blyfield. He took the name from an 18th century London pub favored by celebrities and nobility, including Queen Anne. The original pub got its name from the hot drinks pumped into the cocktails of its stylish clientele.

The Chicago Pump Room was a smashing success from the time it opened. It's most desired table reserved for 'A list' celebrities was Booth #1, which for a time may have been the most sought after table at any dining establishment in the country. Booth #1 at various times hosted Frank Sinatra and his associates, Bogart and Bacall, Judy Garland and daughter Liza Minnelli, John Barrymore and countless others.

Blyfield died in 1950, but the Pump Room remained a Chicago hot spot and hosted a new era of superstars including Mel Brooks, Beverly Sills, Paul Newman, Robert Redford. More recently, Michael J. Fox, Eddie Murphy and Mick Jagger have made appearances. A funny story involves former Genesis drummer Phil Collins, who was refused entry for not wearing a jacket. The incident was commemorated in the title of his next solo album No Jacket Required which has since sold over 14 million copies worldwide and launched Collins into solo superstardom. Following its release, the Pump Room sent Collins an apology"and an appropriate jacket so that the incident wouldnt be repeated.

The Pump Room was purchased by a large restaurant management group in the late 1990's. They spent a lot of money to renovate the facility, overhaul the menu and hire a top flight chef. While the Pump Room's golden era trade mark flaming food served on a sword was a tragedy of city fire codes, the menu is now on par with any in the city serving a sophisticated interpretation of classic American cuisine. In addition to the revamped cuisine, the Pump Room upgraded its wine offering and expanded the bar area.

Today, current Executive Chef Nick Sutton continues the restaurant's tradition of culinary excellence. The most amazing thing about the restaurant, however, remains the almost palpable sense of history that the dining room affords. Sitting in the same room where icons of American culture from Sinatra to Bogart held court is an intoxicating experience in itself. Chef Sutton has maintained the quality of the Pump Room's food and service to the high level worthy of the legends that have dined there.

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